The 'Stokes'' wave' theory (finite amplitude) differs from Airy theory in that Stokes'' theory accounts for:
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Only tidal effects at long periods
Non-linear effects: asymmetric wave profile (sharp crest, flat trough) and net Stokes drift in wave direction
Linear relationships between all wave parameters
Stokes removes Airy''s assumptions about pressure
Correct Answer
B. Non-linear effects: asymmetric wave profile (sharp crest, flat trough) and net Stokes drift in wave direction
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Stokes higher-order wave theory: includes non-linear effects. Differences from Airy (1st order): (1) Wave crest sharper, trough flatter (non-sinusoidal profile); (2) Net drift of water particles in wave direction (Stokes drift); (3) Wave speed depends on amplitude (slightly faster for higher waves); (4) Set-up and set-down effects. 2nd order Stokes: accurate for intermediate waves. Breaking criterion: H/L > 0.142 or H/d > 0.78.
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